Installation Instructions for the Liteclip Strip™
Types of installations:
3. Installation methods
4. Special Installations
Most installations for the home include outlining the eve, roof, door and window lines. There can be several types of installations at each of these areas.
1. Eve outlines (sometimes gutter) are the most popular since they show the breadth of a home and the unique lines of the largest part of a home. We suggest three locations for the installation of the Liteclip Strip. First if possible, install the strip on the underside of the fascia board (usually a 1 x 4 or 1 x 6). Follow this line all around the perimeter of the house. The Liteclip Strip is approximately 1" in width and the boards are usually 3/4" to 1" in width and this makes for an easy installation. The suggested method of attachment of the Liteclip Strip™ to the fascia board is by galvanized staples every 6 inches on each side of the strip (see: suggested tools).
Check to make sure that you have at least 2 inches of clearance from the Fascia board to the wall of the house or any other obstruction, you will need this space for the socket and wire if you are using C-7 or C-9 bulbs. If using miniature lights or icicle lights, the fascia can be flush with the house wall, brick or siding etc.
If you cannot attach the Liteclip Strip ™ to the bottom of the fascia, then attach it to the face of the fascia board. The preferred location is at the bottom of the board away from the roof edge. (In many cases the roofing shingle material will extend out over the edge of the fascia board and interfere with the Liteclip Strip ™ operation. At night the location, as you can see from the pictures is not critically important, as the human eye cannot discern the exact location of the light source, and the reflection from the fascia board will enhance the illumination of the bulbs.
1. Window installation is very simple. There are many different types of windows that the Liteclip Strip ™ can be installed around.
A. Casement windows; use the space of the frame if wide enough; use the inside frame of the window housing; and last is to surface mount the Liteclip Strip ™ on the outside trim, wall or siding of the window.
B. Wood frame windows; in many cases the windows will have enough space on the frame itself to mount the Liteclip Strip ™ if the windows are not to be moved. If mounting in the frame, trim or on the outside siding, consider the method as described above in “A.”
C. Aluminum windows; Best location is within the framed opening or on the outside trim or siding.
D. Picture windows and all others; Select a location that will give you the best access, view and also allow the bulbs to be seen from inside the home by mounting the Liteclip Strip ™ at the closest edge to be visible through the glass.
1. Door installation; should use caution as to the location of the Liteclip Strip ™ so as to avoid accidental bumping into the lights or strip. Examine your door to make sure that you can place the lights in such a fashion that you will not break, damage or have them get caught when going through the doorway. In many cases there is a wood frame work within the doorway that the Liteclip Strip ™ can be attached to and this is your best method. If an outside installation is the safest, then this should be chosen. Brick framed doorways need special consideration, as the Liteclip Strip ™ can be mounted permanently (recommended) or in a fashion to be removed after the season (see: temporary installations).
1. Arched or Curved installations: Liteclip Strip ™can be installed on arches (inside or outside the curve) and on various types of curved installations. The Liteclip Strip ™ will bend on it’s own to a radius as tight as 12 to 18 inches and to tighter radii with he help of a hair dryer (see: hair dryer bending). Curved arches such as those found inside a doorway or arched window frame can easily be installed with the placement of the Liteclip Strip ™ on the inside of the curved frame. It is very difficult to arch the Liteclip Strip ™ on the flat side of the face of a curve. When possible always install on the inside or outside of a curve.
Most commercial installations include outlining Parapet caps, roof lines, window frames and Architectural features that are unique to a building or structure.
1. Parapet Installations: The installation of a parapet (top of a vertical wall) is most popular for free standing buildings, shopping centers and facilities where just a simple light outline is desires with precise results, speed and easy reinstallation and removal. Most parapets will have a “cap” or flashing that will cover the top of the parapet. This is generally a metallic material and in some cases is a stone, precast, marble or other structural material. The strip should be installed close to the edge (viewing edge) as possible. A setback of about ¼ to ½ inch is desired to hide the strip when not in use. The visible edge can also be painted (see painting) if there is a great contrast between the strip and the parapet cap. The setback should allow for the bulb to be seen from directly below the wall as well as from a distance. We suggest that painting be a last resort and avoided if possible. Depending on the parapet material the strip can be stapled or attached with an adhesive material. When using an adhesive material, such as E6000® or Marine Goop® place a small nickel size dab every 6 inches and at each end of a strip. When stapling, a staple should be placed on either side every 6 inches and at each end also. Other fastening methods can be used and it is recommended that the attachment should be secured every 6 inches or less and at the ends of each strip.
1. Commercial Window Installations: are very similar to the residential installation instructions, however there is a greater interest in indoor installation where necessary. On indoor installations you may select a location inside a building that will allow visibility of the lights, such as inside the window frame, on the outer edge of a window frame or in other locations that would allow the installed bulb to be visible from the outside.
1. Commercial roof lines: The Liteclip Strip ™ can be installed along roof lines and in areas that are accessible for outlining commercial roof structure. Caution should be used when installing and also determine the surface that the strip is being installed on, for any adverse safety concerns. (We highly recommend that you not place lights on wood shingle roof material, due to the possibility of fire hazard.)
We have seen many methods of installation of the Liteclip Strip. Some methods have been developed by our customers and some by our own staff. While these methods are unique and somewhat creative, we pass them along with the suggestion that you test before committing a lot of time and money to a method that may be unique to only a specific set of needs. As with any new method of installation we recommend that you test a 5-10 foot section before installing a complete set of strip, only to find out in the end that you should have installed the strip an inch away or closer!
1. Glue Installation is most common on horizontal surfaces, railings and in some instances where removal may be required. We suggest that you consider an adhesive that will hold PVC (vinyl). While we have tried several materials and brands, we have found that “Goop” or E-6000 works the best overall for most applications. You should consider a viscosity of material that will flow into the inside of the round section of the strip and one that will also adhere to the PVC itself, as well as the surface that you are applying it to. The surface condition is also important as the adhesive will only be as good as the surface that you are attaching the strip to. Fresh, pealing or dirty paint is not a good surface to start with. On vertical surfaces you will need to tape or hold the strip until the glue sets, this would also include arches, curves or other than flat horizontal surfaces. The typical installation of an adhesive is a small nickel (¾") every 6 inches and at each end of a strip.
1. Two Sided Closed Cell Foam Tape On some interior installations we have had customers use a double sided foam tape. Most tapes of this type are a “Closed Cell” type of foam and the thickness will vary based upon the type of surface that you are mounting on. Follow the instructions on the tape if you are planning to use this type of installation method.
1. Staples are the best way to mount the strip on wooden surfaces and some other materials that will accept staples. Be sure that the stapler that you are using is a “flush” finished stapler. This means that the staple is driven flush (even) with the stapler head. Many pneumatic staplers countersink the staple and this will drive the staple through the strip and result in a cut and will eventually not hold. Use a galvanized, Monel or stainless steel staple for outdoor installation where the strip will be exposed to the weather. Place staples opposite each other on 6 inch centers and at the ends of each strip. When using an Arrow T-50 or similar stapler, you will have to have access to both sides of the strip to get a good “seat” on the staple. Most standard manual staplers do not have a deep or long neck to the staple head and will not allow you to reach around the “rounded” center of the Strip. You may want to consider this before you decide on a manual stapler. A flat crown width of " to " is desirable for all staples; rounded crown staples do not hold well.
1. Screws have been used to attach the strip and will require predrilling of the strip unless a “drill point” screw is used. We recommend testing screws to determine the best to use for your application.
2. Pop Rivets can be used where necessary to attach the strip. We suggest the same spacing as staples (6") on opposite sides. A large head is also suggested to prevent pulling through the strip.
3. Nails and Tacks can be used with the same spacing and configuration as staples. We suggest galvanized or weatherable material for outside installation.